About this experience
I will show you a different Tel Aviv: not as famous as old Jaffa, but just as beautiful. Similar to Jaffa, Arabic Ajami has a criminal past and a promising tourist future. Luxurious villas, churches, cozy courtyards, and gardens: these places remain untouched and therefore retain their charm. During the tour, you will learn how the Palestinian city lived in the 19th century, understand why it was abandoned, and immerse yourself in its atmosphere.
What to Expect
Life of the old district
"Ajami" is the name of an Israeli film nominated for an Oscar 10 years ago. It portrays Arabic teenagers dealing drugs, Israeli police shooting in the streets, and an Arab-Jewish couple never being together. Today, the situation has changed: European diplomats' families now inhabit the once-abandoned Palestinian mansions, and gentrification of the area is happening rapidly. But chickens still roam the yards of abandoned British hospitals, and my tour group sometimes encounters peacocks.
Ajami in the past, present, and future
Decrepit villas, churches, priest houses - you will admire the architecture of the Middle Eastern colonial style and enjoy the tranquility of cozy gardens. I will tell you about the times when the Ottoman Empire ruled this territory: the life of the Arab intellectual elite, what they traded, and in which languages they spoke. You will understand why the Arab district has so many strange churches, how Maronites differ from Melkites, and who now lives in these insane mansions. We will also discuss the political processes that led to neglect and housing crisis: until 2000, the area was a haven for criminal elements. But today, foreign investors are contributing to the area's development: you will hear about the concept of Ajami's gentrification and learn about what awaits it in the future.
Organizational Details
- The tour is on foot: please wear comfortable shoes.
- The route is about 3 kilometers long, with almost no elevation changes. It is a circular route, ending where we started.
- High school students will also enjoy the tour.